Acne Studios Women Spring/summer 2025 at Paris Fashion Week

Acne Studios Women Spring/summer 2025 / SS25 at Paris Fashion Week

Inspiration of Acne Studios Women Spring/summer 2025, “The idea for this collection started from a twisted domestic scenery. I asked myself whether classic domestic codes could actually be translated into fashion,” says Jonny Johansson, Creative Director of Acne Studios. “The end result is domestic and alien.” This season serves as a glimpse behind closed doors and curtains; seeing the familiar, twisted. Surreal fabric choices. Warped silhouettes. Where home furnishings – draped curtains, wax tablecloths, upholstery – are subverted and reimagined as clothing.

Show Space of Acne Studios Women Spring/Summer 2025, A new installation by Philadelphia-based visual artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase sets an expressive domestic scene as the backdrop for the Acne Studios Women SS25 show. It comprises soft sculpture, furniture and painting, in which household objects – lamps, fans, sinks, radios, picture frames – are reinterpreted in the artist’s dynamic, intuitive style. With it, Jonathan Lyndon Chase proposes an exploration of the public and private, foregrounded by themes of Black subjectivity, queerness and domestic tenderness.

“I invited the artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase to collaborate on the Acne Studios Women SS25 show, because I am a big fan of their work and had seen their exhibition Now I’m home, lips that know my name at Sadie Coles HQ in London in 2023. The domestic world has a lot of mixed connotations, but I love how Jonathan embraces and plays with it, it’s like a subversion of it. It’s expressive and fluid. They take it somewhere else – twisting and flipping it into something you want to be part of.” says Jonny Johansson. “I want to put a lens on interior moments – these domesticated, soft, tender moments. I was thinking a lot about comfortability and vulnerability; existing unapologetically in your own space. The outside world is chaotic and hard, and I think people can consider trying to be softer,” says Jonathan Lyndon Chase.

Silhouette of Acne Studios Women SS25 Collection, an extreme silhouette: garments are super-shrunken or inflated in size. Nothing as it seems. Drapes and bows – some starched, others oversized – recall home furnishings. Layering is used in unexpected ways: archetypal garments are conjoined to create hybrid silhouettes, like rummaging through your mother’s wardrobe, or twisted and padded. There is a feeling of being half-dressed: tailoring is warped and creased, as if pulled on at speed, while leather is raw-cut and minimal for a subversive riff on luxury. Eveningwear has an undone, spontaneous feel, with naive propositions. Colour palette is Chocolate brown, charcoal grey and camel are used to signify luxury, while black appears across leather and latex. Elsewhere, there are pops of sugar-coated powdery pink, vanilla yellow, sky blue and pearl, interrupted by bolder shades of orange, bubblegum and coral.

FABRIC – Denim and leather continue to be reinvented: here, it is bonded with foam for a distinct silhouette, while tumbled lamb leather has a denim attitude. Tailoring is also bonded, giving a stiff, structured shape. Hand-crochet knits recall doilies and tea cosies, oversized and crystal-adorned. Other knits are worn in and deconstructed: boiled mohair has a shrunken fit, as if washed at too high a temperature mimicking the sentimentality of a well-loved garment. Cotton and lycra jersey evokes underwear. The sheen of latex feels almost alien, as if from another planet.

Prints – Florals drawn from vintage fabrics and domestic interiors are warped and distorted, clashing with the textures of leather and latex. Polka dots are faded and blurred. Plaid checks nod towards a masculine wardrobe.

The new Camero handbag Acne Studios is introduced for the season, its compact shape inspired by vintage camera bags. The Multipocket ‘tool bag’ returns in mock-croc leather, or adorned with crystal bows. A softer, handheld clutch conjures a nostalgic glamour appearing in mock-croc and crystal iterations. This season’s jewellery is bold and sculptural. High-shine bracelets, rings and necklaces have an irregular, hammered finish. Chains are heavy and oversized. Swarovski crystals appear across bow-shaped bracelets and bulbous split rings and cuffs.

Footwear, Streamlined, exaggerated peep-toe pumps arrive in mock-croc, flocked nappa and degradé-hued leathers, while a boot version of the same style is adorned with floral prints. The ballet pump is reimagined in a crochet knit, lending a homespun feel. Swarovski crystals appear crocheted all over as pumps and ballet flats.