Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25 at Paris Fashion Week, Lost and found thoughts on SS25:
I kept thinking of the last days of summer this season. Just when it ends. Every day was fun to wake up, and was spent in the sun. Sun, sun-faded clothes, hues that fade and blur like when you fall asleep in broad daylight, at the sea. You wake up, and they are all distorted. Bare chest and denim.
I am listening to Crystal Castles’ “Crystal Castle II” while I jolt down these seemingly random notes, in the early morning, the show a few hours away. “Rumors” by Fleetwood Mac was the record of those summers. One of my favorites. My mom used to play it every morning. What a compelling aural combination, sounds lost and found.
A soft and tender feeling: love or friendship? I don’t know. Lace is tender. Skin is soft.
Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25 collection came out of this bundle of thoughts and emotions. I let them flow as they came along, one thing found, another lost. There is lace and there denim, and knit that flies like feathers. There is an elongation and a slouchiness, and the suppleness of tailoring. There are the infinite ways of a neckerchief. The long flow of a robe, the urge of self decoration, the poignant absent-mindedness: every day it is fun to wake up, and get dressed, or undressed.
I never put a bandana on my head back then, but I still like the look of a young Mike Muir. My jeans, instead, were constantly ripped and my grandma kept patching them up.
Indefiniteness is what I am after. An ambiguity of dressing, being and behaving that allows the freedom to be as one wants, boundlessly, like those summer days, and the endless possibilities they enticed.
Rawness and delicacy: an unfiltered translation of this sentiment. Words can hardly catch it, but they sure turn it into a promise.
Ann Demeulemeester, to me, is a mindscape that asks to be built piece by piece: adding, taking away, weaving personal feelings and autobiography into the process, finding and losing, losing and finding. Let me dream a bit more.
About Stefano Gallici, Born in 1996 in Teor, Stefano Gallici discovered fashion through punk rock, indie and garage.Attracted by the continuity between musical and aesthetic expression, he made it the foundation of his own creative quest. A graduate of IUAV university in Venice, he joined Ann Demeulemeester in 2020 and was appointed creative director in 2023. His vision of the house is nourished by a mixture of musical leanings and respect for Ann’s work, synthesized in a vibrant and individual signature.
About Ann Demeulemeester, A member of the original Antwerp Six, Ann Demeulemeester launched her eponymous label in 1985, getting recognition for her androgynous silhouettes, dark romanticism and refined yet emotionally charged creations. Challenging gender norms, she left an enduring mark on fashion which still reverberates in the Ann Demeulemester line, now under the ownership of Antonioli Group and the creative direction of Stefano Gallici.
All images Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25 by Ann Demeulemeester. Credit to Creative Director: Stefano Gallici, Styling: Elodie David Touboul, Hair: Anthony Turner, Make Up: Inge Grognard, Casting: Ben Grimes, Music: Marco Fusinato, Production: Urban Production, Video : Videogang, Press: KCD Paris