Niccolo Pasqualetti Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25 at Paris Fashion Week on 29th September 2024.
It’s water. Something absolutely pure, something sincere. It’s a shell, a souvenir from a day at the beach, attached to a garment with a long metal chain. While the hair is still wet, it’s a swimsuit kept underneath an ensemble in a geometric lace embroidery, the layers producing an accidental collage.
It’s finding yourself at a party in a garden, intoxicated by the perfume in the air and the appearances of the other guests. Dressed in resplendent fabrics, they play with the risk of being too much, but they never are. Each potent note is left alone to diffuse, mingling with the air. You see sequins in many forms: large paillettes reflect like the sun on the ocean, but when shrunken they seem to absorb all light. And sometimes they merge with feathery fringe, producing an unusual, chimeric texture.
It’s a silk twill scarf, in what looks like an animal print, wrapped spontaneously around the waist, and fixed with an embossed leather belt. Or it’s a dress in tailoring canvas, pleated so it unfolds like the wing of a little bird, worn with your husband’s derbies.
It starts off as masculine, leather against linen dyed to resemble the earth or an elongated dress shirt, but soon enough it gives way to something more feminine. Something which has no inside or outside – like transparent silk mesh, curling into itself and away from the body, dancing in loose swirls.
Beads collect like drops of dew. You wear them on your body like a vest, or dangled from the ear as jewelry. Such purity. Your heart aches. Make yourself beautiful, enchanting. It’s in the sweetness of the gestures, the balance.
Niccolo Pasqualetti Spring/Summer 2025 collection explores contradictions through 31 looks, mixing unexpected combinations of artisanal fabrics with a more refined, pared-back silhouette.
Details of Niccolo Pasqualetti Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25, Trench coats and sleeveless jackets are oversized and paired with voluminous trousers. Viscose blazers are paired with translucent trousers, layered over classic slacks. Swimsuits are worn under asymmetric tops and evening gowns. Dresses are made out of shirts, attached together. Found objects, like shells and various trinkets, are attached to metal chains, and sometimes integrated into the clothing. Earrings, with tendrils of rock crystal, amethyst, and onyx, resemble medusae.
All images Niccolo Pasqualetti Spring/Summer 2025 / SS25 by Niccolo Pasqualetti. Credit to Styling Samuel Drira, Makeup Ikuko Shindo for Shiseido, Hair Pablo Kümin for Schwarzkopf, Scent Vilhelm Parfumerie, Skin Fields of Yarrow, Casting Chouaïb Arif, Video / Music Alessandro Tinelli, Runway photography Luca Tombolini, Words Rhys Evans