Jeanne Friot Spring/Summer 2027 at Paris Fashion Week

Jeanne Friot Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Paris Fashion Week entitled HYSTERIA — Collection 9

Hysterical. Those who scream too loud, who cry at the wrong moment, who refuse to calm down. The idea of a soul that overflows, of a world too narrow that demands silence, the idea of a madness that spills over, comes to mind at every instant. Do we live in reality, or in a simulation that has taken its place? Reality, in any case, seems to have shifted: it is the mad who are in power, the very ones who decide where hysteria begins, and who the hysterics are. This ninth collection / Jeanne Friot SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 reclaims that word. It turns it around. It makes it a weapon, one that unsettles and transforms the gestures, the silences, and the gazes of our society.

The history of Hysteria is first and foremost a history of power over bodies. At the Salpêtrière, Charcot organized weekly spectacles: interned women put on display for the Parisian bourgeoisie who came to watch. What Freud later began to understand, that these women had suffered violence, that their bodies were speaking what their era forbade them to say, was carefully set aside. Diagnosis was preferred over listening. The asylum was preferred over truth.

Niki de Saint Phalle, Yayoi Kusama, Marilyn Monroe, the Italian poet Alda Merini, who wrote everywhere on hospital walls, in lipstick, all were contained, confined, silenced. All are celebrated today. This is their show. The models escape. This is the central image of the collection: women breaking out of the asylum, in clothes designed for flight and for fighting. The chromatic progression traces this arc, from clinical, almost surgical white, to spotted ensembles, then to deep black. White comes first: the white of walls, of smocks, of the institution. A white that breeds obsession. Throughout the making of the collection, hands were washed compulsively, stains were seen everywhere, paranoia set in, as though the collection itself were performative.

Details of Jeanne Friot SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, The silhouettes hold the tension between restraint and escape. The belts, the house’s signature, return transformed, displaced, worn sometimes as constraints, sometimes as armour. Trench coats rise above the nose, concealing half the face, yet allowing them to spill what has historically been constructed as a symbol of feminine seduction: hair. A crinoline dress, so dramatic it tips into camp, opens the show a direct nod to Galliano, McQueen, Westwood, to an entire lineage of independent fashion drawn toward theatricality, refusing reason. The show closes with mini-dresses with accentuated hips, shoulders covered in latex feathers crafted by Matisse Di Maggio, a new body, a feathered woman unfeathering the patriarchy, worn by house muse Claude Emmanuelle. In counterpoint: pieces drawn from the world of sport, reinterpreted through lesbian culture, boxing, motorcycle, racing, clothes that free movement and prepare for combat. Nomadic accessories created in partnership with Domestique: carabiner belts, AirPods clips, lipstick holders, cigarette cases because those who choose movement need clothes that function, not just clothes that signify.

The details carry the references. The collection’s slogan is written in lipstick, a direct echo of Alda Merini and her covered walls. The stains on the garments evoke the exploded paintings of Niki de Saint Phalle’s shooting works. Lashes are adorned with white; eyes sometimes with red lenses. Foucault called the hysterics of the Salpêtrière “the first true militants of anti-psychiatry.” They had understood, before anyone else, that resistance could take the form of an exaggerated symptom, a body that overflows, a spectacle turned against those who staged it.

Jeanne Friot SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection’s boxing-line shoes are signed by BOTH, a label known for its hybrid, minimalist aesthetic and its commitment to sustainable innovation, complemented by a series of belted-heel shoes crafted by the house. The show’s beauty was created by Make Up For Ever, sponsor of the show. Hair is by Charlie Le Mindu. The music is an original composition by Rebeka Warrior. The Palais de Tokyo, the largest European cultural center dedicated to contemporary creation, inclusive and embracing difference as enrichment, is the ideal setting for this second official show on Paris Fashion Week calendar.