SOSHIOTSUKI Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Paris Fashion Week entitled “The Persistence of Memory”
At the core of SOSHIOTSUKI’s creative practice is memory. Not only personal memories, but also memories inherited through photographs, films, and the stories of others memories never personally experienced, yet somehow deeply familiar. This season begins with a sense of nostalgia for a resort that has never actually been visited.
The image at the heart of SOSHIOTSUKI SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection is that of a usually strict father allowing himself to loosen up, just slightly, while on holiday. Freed by the atmosphere of a resort, he dresses in ways he never normally would. A shirt with one collar flipped out. Shorts that refuse to close completely. Trunks peeking out beneath them. Lapels and belts curving into forms reminiscent of the letter “S.”
There is something imperfect about him almost awkward. Yet within that awkwardness lies humanity and charm. Because he is someone who ordinarily strives for perfection, these subtle disruptions never diminish his dignity; instead, they become part of his appeal. It is a fleeting vulnerability that can only emerge in the extraordinary setting of a resort. Yet these gestures are not the result of the wearer’s intention.
SOSHIOTSUKI builds this sense of “undone” directly into the product itself. What would normally occur by chance through styling or the habits of the wearer is instead engineered into the garment’s construction. It is not the wearer’s individuality that creates these moments. The garment inevitably becomes this way on its own. There is no deliberate act of dressing carelessly. This philosophy extends directly into this season’s exploration of soft tailoring.
For SOSHIOTSUKI, softness is not simply achieved through soft fabrics or by removing linings and shoulder pads. Instead, the internal canvas construction has been fundamentally reconsidered, pursuing softness through pattern cutting as much as through material selection. The lapels maintain their curves through an exaggerated roll line. The belts are shaped by concealed metal inserts. The collar stays are molded into flowing curves. Together, they create silhouettes that subtly evoke the letter “S.” Behind this approach lies the influence of Salvador Dalí. Dalí’s works present rigid objects that appear to melt. Inspired by this paradox, we sought to create garments that appear soft despite being structurally rigid. Internal construction, metal reinforcements, and carefully engineered patterns hold each form in place while giving the impression that gravity has naturally caused the garments to collapse. They are not soft. They simply appear soft. Designing that visual impression also means designing the way the wearer behaves. People naturally seek reasons for the way they dress. “Because it’s functional.” “Because I’m on vacation.” “Because it was a gift.” “Because that’s how it’s designed.” These small justifications make the act of dressing feel effortless.
SOSHIOTSUKI wanted to build those reasons into the garments themselves. The materials for SOSHIOTSUKI SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 are composed primarily of newly developed original fabrics and faithful reproductions of textiles produced more than twenty years ago, all manufactured entirely in Japan. The wools and linens are yarn-dyed, using different colors and fibers for the warp and weft to create visual depth. The cotton fabrics undergo garment dyeing and washing processes that evoke the passage of time. The color palette likewise reflects accumulated time rather than vitality: dry beige, clay-like reddish brown, and faded sax blue. These are not the colors of nature in its prime, but the colors of materials that have gradually lost moisture through sunlight and air over time. For SOSHIOTSUKI, clothing is not about recreating the past. It is a structure that gives form to memories we have never experienced, allowing them to become new memories inscribed onto the body.
Collaboration of SOSHIOTSUKI SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, Following the tracksuits introduced in the Autumn/Winter 2026 collection, SOSHIOTSUKI continues its collaboration with ASICS SportStyle, unveiling a new footwear model. The GEL-AXIS™ FF shoes, available in four colorways, comes in two variations: one featuring leather with perforations of varying sizes, and another constructed from a high-density mesh material. In collaboration with SANYO YAMACHO, the brand presents a pair of Gurkha sandals that retain the appearance of classic dress shoes. The style is offered in three colorways: black in grained leather, and light brown and green in smooth leather. Created together with SANYOCOAT, the long coat features detachable shoulder pads and a water-repellent finish. Inspired by a coat worn by the designerʼs father in the 1980s, it not only adopts the traditional double-breasted silhouette of the era but also incorporates the original vintage logo as a special design detail. Together with blackmeans, SOSHIOTSUKI has developed a leather jacket based on the brandʼs own pattern. Crafted from beige cowhide, the jacket is finished with khaki pigment paint and layers of red and navy spray paint. The cracked texture of the leather surface is the natural result of its unique production process. Continuing a collaboration that began in 2023, jewelry designer KOTA OKUDA has created a range of accessories including tie clips, cufflinks, belts, and specially curved collar stays that form the designerʼs initial, the letter “S.”
Born in 1990, Soshi Otsuki founded his menswear label SOSHIOTSUKI in 2015. The brand proposes a contemporary vision of dandyism shaped by Japanese sensibilities and traditional tailoring techniques. In 2016, he was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, and in 2023 presented his first runway show at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO. In 2025, he was awarded the Grand Prize at the LVMH Prize 2025. In January 2026, he was selected as the Guest Designer for Pitti Immagine Uomo 109, where he presented his runway show in Florence, Italy. https://soshiotsuki.jp/
All images SOSHIOTSUKI SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 by the brand. CREDIT TO : Designer Soshi Otsuki, Stylist Alister Mackie (Streeters), Hair Yu Nagatomo, Make-up Kanako Yoshida, Casting Director Piotr Chamier (Streeters), Music TAAR, Video Director Rei Takaji, Runway Photographer Koji Shimamura, Director & Backstage Photographer Local Artist, Show Director Fuminori Sakai (VISIONS AND PARADOX), Show Producer Christian Sven Adams (brachfeld), International Project Director Benjamin Bernadet (benk.world), Show Calling Ayumi Okada, Set Design Keita Furusawa (VISIONS AND PARADOX), Light Designer Mitsuhisa Ogaki (MGS), Sound Designer Ai Nashimoto (ABC), Kimitoshi Ito (ABC), Stylist Assistants Vincent Pons, Dominik Radomski, Isabella Papadimitriou, Casting Assistant Benedikt Verheyen, Designer Assistants Azusa Fuji, Masahiro Egami, Minaho Matsushima, Haruki Tanaka, Backstage Photographer Assistant Shun Hidaka, PR MATT. & DAVID SIWICKI COMMUNICATION