Kiko Kostadinov Men Spring/Summer 2027 at Paris Fashion Week

Kiko Kostadinov Men Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Paris Fashion Week

The Kiko Kostadinov collection for SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 began by looking back at the minimal geometric forms of the previous season and asking what could be challenged and pushed further. At its core is the continued refinement and evolution of a new design language for the label, with an emphasis on cut and materiality over narrative, and a commitment to learning and re-learning the act of making clothes.

Inspiration of Kiko Kostadinov Men SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 from A key reference is the sculptural, monochromatic painting of artist Agostino Bonalumi (Italian, b. 1935). Bonalumi would place structural interventions directly underneath the canvas surface, devising the term “extroflexion” to describe the tension between the painting and the invisible forces pushing out from it. The resulting works were often extreme in form – bulging, undulating, curving – while remaining provocatively unadorned: canvases of single, uniform colour with rhythmic patterns produced by the play of light and shadow over the concealed elements below.

Details of Kiko Kostadinov Men SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, This logic is carried through into a collection that finds visual emphasis through structure rather than surface embellishment. Topstitching and trims are kept to a minimum. There are no visible zippers. No print. Fastenings are hidden behind plackets or matched with fabric. Styling is led by material rather than by overarching proposals or the creation of characters, with looks grouped by a tight palette of textiles, treatments and colours. There is a sense of continuity, even uniformity, between garments – a series of minimal canvases being morphed and coaxed into new shapes.

Internal boning inserted under the surface of blazers, articulated jackets, trousers and raw-edged patchwork T-shirts creates curved, rippling protrusions, emphasising a tension between softness and structure. The label’s made in Japan suiting features subtly padded blazers and trousers in silk wool with dense stitching that forms deep, seam-like indentations. Structured jackets and shorts in polyurethane-coated denim nod to Bonalumi’s signature vinyl tempera-treated canvases.

Silhouettes are cut slimmer, sharper and closer to the body this season, offset by the appearance of long, tunic-like tops in draped jersey and silky nubuck, oversized pyjama shirting with funnel necks and lightweight knitted tops with tie fastenings. A recurring rhombus form reappears and mutates throughout, informing the neck guards on slim-cut wool coats and cropped blousons, the extended lapels of high-neck blazers, and the asymmetric fastenings on trousers with radiating hems. These structural and geometric motifs are further echoed in the show venue, which is illuminated by a wall of Saori lamps – their curved, tensile shapes designed by Bonalumi’s contemporary Kazuhide Takahama (Japanese, b. 1930).

Accessories include rectangular crossbody bags produced from single pieces of folded leather, rhombus brooches and belts of contrasting thickness with burnished metallic buckles. A new eyewear collaboration with Oakley features a streamlined take on the Terraforma model in coloured acetate and a series of angular, visor-like concept pieces handmade in the brand’s California headquarters. Footwear further adapts core silhouettes, with an update of the Sargo lace-up into loafers and mid-cut leather boots. Newly developed slip-ons overlay rubberlike leather to create ridged debossing on the heel and toe box that emphasises material plasticity. This season also sees the return of the brand’s collaboration with Crocs, now updated into a lighter summer model with a newly developed lacing system alongside mixed-material uppers.