Anne Sofie Madsen Spring/Summer 2027 at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Anne Sofie Madsen Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Copenhagen Fashion Week entitled THE NEW DESIRE

Anne Sofie Madsen presented the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, The New Desire, on Monday, 3 August 2026 at 4:00 PM CEST as part of Copenhagen Fashion Week. The runway show marked the brand’s final presentation within the Copenhagen Fashion Week NEWTALENT Programme.

Anne Sofie Madsen SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection began with a desire to recover the capacity to imagine alternatives. Not as a promise, but as a reopening of possibilities for different ways of living and being together. Desire could restrict the imagination by returning us to what was already familiar. It could also lead beyond it. Where previous collections had considered what had been lost, this season turned towards what could still be possible.

Within the collection, the square became the primary structure. It had no inherent front and did not prescribe a body. With maximum potential and minimum direction, it remained open until construction gave it purpose. Tailoring introduced direction without abandoning this openness. By adding or removing sections, familiar forms were disrupted. Rather than imposing shape, tailoring became a means of negotiation. Draped tops, skirts and dresses were constructed from layered surfaces, waterfall necklines and bias-cut satin. They responded directly to the body while resisting a fixed outline, making shape dependent on movement. The transparency of silk chiffon and organza layers allowed one construction to exist through another. Beneath an open-backed layer of organza, a satin slip dress was both veiled and exposed. The layers created shifting relationships between body, cloth and construction. Silk organza was hand-smocked and dyed repeatedly to create graduated peach surfaces.

The technique was used across a jacket and a layered yellow dress, forming structures that resembled an unfamiliar plant. These elements interrupted the collection’s geometric language. Horizontal strips of sand-washed silk and chiffon continued this shift, allowing controlled geometry to become organic on the body.

Anne Sofie Madsen SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 show was shaped by a live performance from the internationally acclaimed Danish recorder virtuoso Michala Petri. Her ability to continually reimagine an instrument so deeply rooted in tradition resonated with the collection’s exploration of possibility and transformation. Rather than accompanying the runway, the performance became an integral part of the presentation, creating an open dialogue between sound, movement and clothing.

As part of the Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Anne Sofie Madsen introduced a series of jersey pieces developed exclusively for the runway show, reworking staple T-shirts from the Nike collection through layering and reconstruction. Original text was placed beneath transparent layers, preserving the existing graphics while creating new compositions across the garment. Selected T-shirts were transformed into dresses, shifting the original sportswear silhouette into new forms that moved between sport, everyday wear, and femininity. The pieces retained elements of the original garments while introducing new proportions and constructions. The Spring/Summer 2027 collection remained an exercise in creative agency, shifting from interpretation towards action while exploring what had yet to take form.

ABOUT ANNE SOFIE MADSEN, Anne Sofie Madsen is a Copenhagen-based fashion brand founded in 2025. The label is known for its sculptural silhouettes, meticulous construction, and focus on craftsmanship. Each collection explores transformation by redefining everyday garments through storytelling and experimental tailoring. Anne Sofie Madsen trained under John Galliano in Paris and worked at Alexander McQueen in London before establishing her own brand. These experiences continue to influence her technique and creative direction. In a natural extension of the brand’s evolving narrative, Caroline Clante joined as co-creative director ahead of the Spring/Summer 2026 season. With a back- ground in editorial and conceptual work, Clante brings a fresh perspective that deepens the storytelling and introduces new layers to the design process, marking the start of the brand’s next chapter. The studio works with textile manipulation and contemporary materials, incorporating silk chiffon, suiting wool and hand-dyed organza. Garments are designed with attention to both structure and movement, combining refinement with a sense of intimacy and personal expression. All garments are made in a Copenhagen studio through a fully hands-on process. Nothing is outsourced. Each collection builds slowly on the last, guided by attention and care rather than trends, using deadstock fabrics such as 100% silk, wool, and cotton, alongside upcycled leather and shearling.