Henrik Vibskov Spring/Summer 2027 at Copenhagen Fashion Week

Henrik Vibskov Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Copenhagen Fashion Week entitled Keep The Moisture Rising

For as long as Henrik Vibskov can remember, there has been a tube of the same cream somewhere within reach. Developed originally to soothe sensitive skin, it has become a constant companion, the kind of small object that, once misplaced, leaves him feeling oddly unprotected. It is a small daily ritual, squeezed from a tube each morning, that promises more than it can really deliver yet matters greatly anyway. SS27 begins here, with this private relationship to a jar of cream and the comfort it provides.

From that starting point, Henrik Vibskov SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection explores the visual and sensual world of lotion: its packaging, its graphic language, the textures it takes on as it is squeezed, whipped, stirred or smoothed across skin. In the awkward space between a creamed body and its surroundings, the foot emerged as an irresistible image: slippery, sensual, therapeutic, and perpetually in contact with the ground. Foot cream, doctor fish treatments and toes peeking out from beneath a parasol on a hot day all become part of the same universe of care and sensation.

Textures and silhouettes reflect the variety of surface qualities of cream. Cream has no fixed form of its own; it only takes shape through how it is handled, extruded, whipped, stirred, smoothed. The SS27 Studio collection translates these textures into bumpy structures. A checked boiled wool group leans into irregularity, embracing unevenness within classic suiting cuts. A corseted group, gathered at the shoulders, behaves like whipped cream or soft ice: weirdly shaped, but only ever partly under control. Elsewhere, a cream-coloured knit is constructed in layers that mimic melting ice cream. And vintage lotion packaging itself becomes an aesthetic reference, appearing as flatpacks that build volume around the body, sometimes confined to a sleeve or a front panel, sometimes expanding to define an entire garment.

The textile artworks draw on equally creamy sensations. A fil-coupé weave arranges different creams, hand cream, coffee cream, toothpaste, milkshake, into a still life composition. A burnout textile shows legs peeking out from beneath individual parasols. White, bulky, monochrome shirting carries words of affirmation and promise lifted from beauty packaging and advertising: calm, soothe, balance, reduce, improve. A notepad print features Henrik’s own doodles: foot-sandwiches, cream cars and foot-worms among other things.

Henrik Vibskov SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 show takes place beneath The Umbrico Spirals, a new pavilion installation developed alongside the collection. Eighteen double spirals in contrasting red and white textile turns slowly in the wind, drawing you in and holding you in a state of suspended attention as the shapes spin, engaged from visitors or wind. Its form draws from the collection’s own logic: the spiraling dollop of lotion and the parasol that shelters barefeet on a hot day, looping back into a structure that moves, hypnotizing, and refusing to stay still.