Monse Spring/Summer 2027 at New York Fashion Week

Monse Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at New York Fashion Week. When Its Deconstructed DNA Meets a More Couture Sensibility

MONSE returned to the New York runway for Spring/Summer 2027 on September 11, 2026, presenting its latest collection at the glass-domed Domino Sugar Factory in Brooklyn. For Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, the show also became an opportunity to revisit the design language that originally established Monse.

The starting point was the tulip. Kim looked to purple-and-white tulips from Amsterdam, particularly their unusual broken coloration caused by a virus. Instead of using the flower simply as a romantic motif, the idea of imperfection was translated into the clothes through three-dimensional floral details, graphic prints, embroidery and specially developed textiles created in Lake Como. But the floral story is not necessarily the most important part of Monse SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027. Beneath it, the label’s familiar vocabulary remains visible: asymmetric tailoring, disrupted proportions and deconstructed menswear. Asymmetric lapels, a sheer brown skirt suit styled with pink underwear and workwear-inspired pieces keep the collection connected to Monse’s established identity.

That identity has always been built around taking familiar menswear elements and breaking their conventional construction. Shirts and tailoring are twisted, displaced or reconstructed, creating a tension between masculine structure and feminine styling. These are the elements that make Monse feel unmistakably like Monse.

At the same time, SS27 carries a more elaborate and feminine sensibility that recalls aspects of Kim and Garcia’s later work at Oscar de la Renta. Their experience there, where the clothes became increasingly refined and couture-minded, can be felt in the sophistication of some of the silhouettes and details presented for Monse. This creates an interesting tension for the brand. Monse does not need to become another couture-oriented American fashion house. Its strongest identity has historically come from deconstruction, asymmetry and the transformation of menswear into something feminine and unexpected.

The more couture sensibility can certainly add refinement to that language, but it should not replace it. The most convincing parts of SS27 are still those where craftsmanship and sophistication support Monse’s original codes rather than overshadow them.

Fringe also brings movement to the collection, appearing across jackets, shirts and workwear. The presentation itself followed a theatrical direction, with a choir performing “Like a Prayer” and a drone moving above the venue.

Ultimately, Monse SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 feels less like a complete reinvention than a meeting point between two chapters of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s design history: the deconstructed Monse they built from the beginning and the more polished, couture-conscious sensibility developed during their time at Oscar de la Renta. The challenge now is finding the balance. Monse can become more sophisticated without losing the disruptive character that made the label distinctive in the first place. That tension may be the most interesting part of its next chapter.