Mithridate Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at London Fashion Week entitled FADE TO GREY on London, September 17, 2026

The SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 Mithridate collection from Creative Director Daniel Fletcher draws inspiration from the unique world of the New Romantics and the singular existence they carved out in 1980s London. At their Blitz Club home, a stone’s throw from today’s show venue, Steve Strange’s strict door policy fuelled the crowd’s creativity. The fashions were entirely inhibited by convention, bringing together androgyny and flamboyance. The period of time when the New Romantics dared to defy convention is often compared to the one we live in today, and it’s this idea that Fletcher began creating from. As a result, a bolder, more expressive thread decorates the Mithridate collection this season.

The New Romantics were quick to adopt the military garb of the Victorian and Edwardian eras, and so details are borrowed from these uniforms here too. Meanwhile, theatre costumes, seized from an abandoned dressing-up box, are given a second life on the dancefloor.

Natty party dresses with bubble hems borrow these soldierly details, while others reinterpret tailoring. A bodice-form dress entirely covered in feathers and tulle-trimmed gowns play into the dress-up mood of the 1980s. It is those pieces alongside low-slung briefs with fringe scarf ties, and corsets worn with suspender clips exposed, that speak to Mithridate’s fresh look at seduction too. Ballerina motifs offer a hint of saccharine, be it candy floss pink tutus or knitwear so fine it’s more akin to sheer, seam-streaked rehearsal hosiery.

The collection prioritises proportion. It manifests in myriad ways, from the oversize studs decorating relaxed denim to the micro shorts seen alongside billowing trench coats, and shrunken cable knits with broad-shouldered jackets.

Accessories of Mithridate SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 add to that creative curation borrowed from the New Romantics, from glossy leather belts to cummerbunds over silk shirts and, perhaps most plainly, Bicorn hats by Noel Stewart. Various curiosities from the Mithridate brand are carried to show that anything has the potential to become a fashion piece when creativity permits.

The season’s colour story challenges conventional pairings. Hot pink and red-hot scarlet, cornflower blue and emerald green, navy and black; worn together, they add an offbeat feel, best seen in striped moiré school scarves transformed into wearable sculptures. The colours converge throughout the collection, continuing the narrative of creative expression defined by intuition, not convention. Numerical motifs, now synonymous with Mithridate, are rendered in leather and emblazoned across shirts and accessories. Other prints in the collection include West End theatre advertisements, their large graphics now writ over pleated skirts that, along with rugby jerseys, striped micro shorts, and ribbed polo shirts, retain a sense of preppiness for Mithridate.

While the 1980s offer much inspiration, a concerted contemporary mood is placed throughout the collection by way of a nonchalance in execution. Jumpers are tied at the neck, cummerbunds are low-slung, while shoes are mostly flat, with even the slingback kitten heels inspired by a sneaker’s silhouette. There is a relaxed mood that aligns with the way the Mithridate woman dresses today.

Fletcher’s latest London Fashion Week collection calls for creativity and self-expression for next season, inviting us all to take his Mithridate pieces and wear them, style them, and live a life in them as best fits the individual.

All images Mithridate SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 by the brand. Key Show Credits : Creative Director Daniel Fletcher @danielwfletcher / Stylist Katie Shillingford @katieshillingford / Millinery Noel Stewart @noelstewart / Music Curation @tydelevi @leland