Florania Spring/Summer 2027 at Milan Fashion Week

Florania Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Milan Fashion Week on 24 September 2026 — 7.00 pm, Spazio LineaPelle, [Piazza Tomasi di Lampedusa]. Main partner: LineaPelle Designers Edition; footwear collaboration: Crocs.

Inspired by the vision of a peaceful Italian lake in the midst of a storm – remarkably surrounded by waves and foam – Florania’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection draws on ‘eco-Gothic’, a subgenre of literature and critical approach that blends the dark atmospheres of Gothic fiction with the ideas of ecocriticism to explore environmental anxieties and the conflictual relationship between humankind and nature (Margaret Atwood’s *Surfacing*, Jeff VanderMeer’s *Annihilation*). To emphasise the current dystopia in which the debate centres on AI consciousness whilst ignoring climate disasters, Florania asks how to capture the Romantic Sublime – nature in all its majesty and terror – and translate it back into human form.

Details of Florania SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, the focus is on geology, and on mineral and botanical textures: stratifications, sediments, erosion, surfaces weathered by the elements, and their organic counterpart: flowers, tides and foam. Natural textures are recreated on the leather using an airbrush, which applies the colour as if it were a weathering agent or a form of erosion. The same approach is applied to the treatment of textiles, where the fabric is worked until it takes on the appearance of a crust or sediment. Knitwear, at the heart of Florania’s experimental techniques, evokes the idea of flowers and tides – ethereal elements among open structures, yarns that shrink and fray, hems that fray like seaweed or sea foam. Draped knits wrap around the body like ropes fished out of the water; layered silks create soft, unstable volumes. The result is garments that are mineral-like, dusty, corroded, or as light as foam; or, indeed, new skins that redefine the silhouette in an almost animal-like manner.

The colour palette is inspired by this eroded natural landscape: sand, bone and ecru are derived from stone and dust; ash greys and anthracite shades, soft as shadows, along with midnight blues and rock blacks, round off the mineral palette. The only saturated accent amidst them is cochineal coral: a colour derived from an invasive living organism.

What emerges from Florania SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection – from the contours of the earth and the colours of the storm-tossed lake – is the visual experimentation of a figure living within the dystopian landscape of the present and the future. Despite being unable to resolve any critical issues, the collection highlights the Romantic Sublime to pose a question: if, through the power of the image we choose to project of ourselves via our clothes, could we convey social themes and projections more quickly than through the words? This is the source of the optimism in this collection.

LineaPelle is the project’s main partner and is hosting the fashion show at its Milan premises. The collaboration takes the form of a joint exploration of leather as a living, transformable material, examined through finishes, airbrushing and metal chain techniques that open up and reconfigure its surface. Crocs joins Florania as a partner in the project, with footwear developed specifically for the fashion show. The music for the show is curated by Carloalberto.

Florania is a Milan-based artisanal and circular ready-to-wear brand founded by Flora Rabitti, operating under Solarpunk Srl, an innovative, female-led start-up. The brand’s approach combines upcycling, textile manipulation, natural dyeing (cochineal, indigo, alkanet, turmeric, elderberry) and circular, made-to-order production, carried out in-house. Florania has been on the official Milan Fashion Week calendar since 2022 and is the winner of the 2023 CNMI Fashion Trust Prize. Among its most recent collaborations is a genderless capsule collection with Max&Co. (Max Mara Group). The brand’s other collaborations include: Kering Material Innovation Lab, Pangaia, Kyocera, Swatch, Vibram and Napapijri. Florania [florania.org] — [@florania__]