Blumarine Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at Milan Fashion Week
The ingénue is enshrined in the cinematic culture of California. She’s the bohemian bombshell born of the beach and the boudoir, who personifies a sensuality suspended between the soft and the seductive, and the girly and glamorous. For SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, David Koma detects a parallel between this sun-faded starlet and the feminine identity embodied by Blumarine. Portraying the popular associations of the house through his own lens, the Creative Director pushes his ongoing study of romanticism out of the dark and into the light. Rendered in a palette of dusty pastels, the collection underlines the enduring power of the Cali-girl ingénue, mirroring both her 1970s and Y2K pop cultural incarnations in the archival expressions of Blumarine.
Blumarine SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027, Inspired by the purity and pageantry that coalesce in the spirit of the ingénue, an amplified focus on daywear transpires. Playing with notions of dressed versus undressed, the wardrobe adapts and transforms elements of lounge- and sleepwear. Camisoles in plumetis proliferate into floor-length robes, minidresses and blouses.
Flounced crepon trousers and blouses are slouchy in form, jersey leggings and tops are draped and ruched around the body like lingerie, and bodices turn into evening dresses. Paying homage to eternal ingénue staples, baby-doll and peasant dresses morph and multiply into a wealth of soft and voluminous silhouettes –including shirts, skirts and dresses – crafted in romantic organza or tulle.
The boudoir sensibility is expressed in flounced knitted knickers and cropped sweaters, as well as the emblematic Blumarine cardigan reinterpreted in viscose yarn with an ostrich-embroidered collar. Adapting the same tactile language, satin super-shiny technical bombers are worn over bombers plumed entirely in ostrich feathers, with big trousers. Invoking the beach culture of the West Coast, a surf girl energy imbues the collection. It’s a sporty-bohemian femininity explored in surf elements such as jersey bodies with cutouts mimicking those of swimsuits, varsity tops with Blumarine Since Forever slogans, and a surfer’s shearling jacket.
The idea further takes shape in figurative elements such as the foam-like ruching of skirts and the waterlike effect of see-through sequins on georgette dresses, denim trousers and cardigans. A grungy, pretty sensibility is likewise conjured in a georgette long dress and blouse with a pink degradé print. Drawing on the nature-centric mentality of the surf girl, a Pacific floral motif runs across bombers and cardigans, Chantilly lace dresses and blouses in two-tone pastels, and a sequinned tulle minidress trimmed with ostrich feathers. Printed on a PVC dress, bomber and bra, the floral pattern cross-pollinates with the water effects of the collection. Finally, the florals evolve dresses where crepon roses are placed on tulle in Anatomical Eden patterns. The motif recurs as a print on tulle bodies.
Harnesses constructed from silver metal flowers and voluminous gems adorn looks alongside expressions structured in Anatomical Eden forms. Heeled, round-toe sandals and pumps are crafted in satin with ostrich or crystal butterfly embellishments, or in a strapped silhouette with large gem adornments. Informed by the collection’s surf theme, the newest silhouette from the UGG® F26 collection, UGG® Enwrap Clog is exclusively reimagined by Blumarine for the show through two distinctive interpretations: one framed by a silver-galvanised, cage-like metal embellishment, echoing the collection’s jewellery and encrusted with cabochon stones in crystal, pink and multicolour; the other elevated with delicate ostrich feathers in natural white and light lavender.
All images Blumarine SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 by the brand. PR Agency Poly Global Advisory. Credit to : CREATIVE DIRECTION David Koma, Featuring UGG® Footwear, STYLING Marc Goehring, HAIR Claire Grech for Tecni.art L’Oréal Professionnel, MAKE UP Patrick Glatthaar for Make Up For Ever, MOVEMENT DIRECTION Ryan Chappell, SOUNDTRACK Mode-F, PRODUCTION Without Production