Nearly a century since the young couturier Marcel Rochas dazzled Paris, an oneiric underworld of strange beauty pulses through the ROCHAS Printemps Ete 2022 collection designed by Charles de Vilmorin.
Paraded Through the ornate salons of Mona von Bismarck’s Parisian fantasia, cinematic vignettes underpin vibrant new expressions of a poetic world on fire. A master of Surreal figuration, de Vilmoorin’s plume conjures an illustrated universe of women: curlicues of black in that reveal adrogyne bodies in motion, expressionist potraits, and the dreamlike remnants of an ancestral home.
Weaving through a laburinth of heightened gestures and emotions, the silhouette sublimates classical shapes with new lightness – Deconstructing the whimsy of cotton dresses and parachute skirt hitched in tumbling volumes, crisp shirts unbottoned in peeling drapes and gowns that glint in tiers of flaming plisse. colours glow in a harlequin palette of cobalt, lemon and flame reds that smoulder against charcoal and smoke. leather crackles in varnished lamskin, metallic brocades dissolve into chiffon pleats, and plame lilies blossom over tatoo hosiery and dazzling embroidered jewels.
traced across cloth in silvery flames. broderie anglaise figures and nature morte jacquard, de Vilmorin’s intricate ilustrations converge with expessions of graphic purity, from fringe-beaded poplin checks and optic white tailoring to monochrome organza ruffles and halter tops draped in crushed mousseline. Accenting the season’s boots and peep to sandals are embellished with stained glasss beading, piercings, and tarnished buckles whilst square toe cuissards are trimmed in undulating organza waves.
All images courtesy of Rochas
PR Agency Lucien Pages Communication