ERDEM SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 at London Fashion Week
The journey between inheritance and legacy is often defined by human determination more than fate. For ERDEM Spring Summer 2024, Erdem examines a story of heritage, edifice and identity, through the lens of Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and her relationship with Chatsworth House.
Erdem was granted access to the archive of Debo, as she was fondly known by assistants and heads of state. Working closely with the Cavendish family, with archivists at Chatsworth and Helen Marchant, Debo’s private secretary, the collection is not just inspired by Debo’s wardrobe, it is an embodiment of her spirit and vision.
Debo’s dedication to laying the foundations for Chatsworth’s future was remarkable. Whilst houses of similar stature crumbled, metaphorically and literally, Debo’s determination combined with her formidable warmth, ensured that Chatsworth would thrive and endure. Hands on and no non-sense, her Chatsworth hosted presidents and artists, farmers and royalty. An independence that bordered on rebellion underpinned her approach.
Debo might be celebrated for redefining what a historic house might be in the 20th Century, but Chatsworth did not define her. She had ardent passions besides her inherited home: farming, chickens, Elvis. Her absence of pretension allowed her to be as comfortable in couture sitting for Cecil Beaton, as stomping through the gardens and grounds in her Barbour and wellies.
Even as Chatsworth flourished, she was a strict proponent of making do and mending rather than lavish extravagance. Antique textiles from Chatsworth have been given to Erdem, who has pieced fragments into dresses and coat linings. A deconstructed gown features remnants of Chatsworth House curtains, hand embroidered by Cecily Lasnet, Debo’s great granddaughter.
Unselfconscious in her propriety, dignified in her pragmatism, Debo’s was a curiously robust form of English eccentricity. Forthright not fey. Erdem’s collection encapsulates this energy. Fragments and memories are pieced together to create a mood that dances between house and human, mirroring their symbiotic relationship.
Chatsworth thrives today; more than an homage, the collection is inspired by Debo’s idiosyncratic love for her legacy that lives on. A single person driven by passion beyond duty, inspired by the past and the future, can be a powerful force. ERDEM SS24 / Spring Summer 2024.
Details of ERDEM SS24 / Spring Summer 2024
Look 1 Trapeze opera coat in sand waxed cotton worn with quilted liner pieced in velvet rose devore jacquard and Chatsworth chintz curtain remnants owned by Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire. Produced in collaboration with Barbour.
Look 2 Cocoon suit jacket and spliced pencil skirt with pleated hem in velvet rose devore jacquard worn with crushed ivory underpinnings.
Look 3 Trapeze opera coat in olive waxed cotton worn with quilted liner pieced in metallic silver cloque and Chatsworth chintz curtain remnants owned by Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire. Produced in collaboration with Barbour.
Look 4 Cropped cocoon suit jacket worn with spliced pencil skirt with pleated hem pieced in velvet rose devore jacquard and antique textile remnants from Chatsworth House, worn with crushed ballet pink underpinnings.
Look 5 Peplum dress with exploded bodice drape in metallic silver lurex cloque worn with silver lurex cloque bow belt.
Look 6 Cropped cocoon suit jacket and bralette in metallic silver lurex cloque worn with layered pencil skirt in shredded silver sequin mesh.
Look 7 Fringed jacquard car coat in canary yellow worn with white poplin shirt and slip skirt in camomile yellow ditsy embroidered organza.
Look 8 Tea dress with fluted sleeves in camomile ditsy embroidered organza worn with crushed canary yellow underpinnings.
Look 9 Fringed jacquard car coat in lupin blue worn with crushed ballet pink bralette and slip skirt in ballet pink ditsy embroidered organza.
Look 10 Tea dress with balloon sleeves in ballet pink ditsy embroidered organza worn with crushed ballet pink underpinnings.
Look 11 Slip dress in lupin blue fringed jacquard with ballet pink underdress in crepe de chine.
Look 12 Lingerie dress with asymmetric draped hem and Chantilly lace bodice in ballet pink crepe satin with hand embroidered crystal and pearl insect embellishment.
Look 13 Lingerie slip dress with asymmetric draped hem in vetiver green crepe satin and Chantilly lace with hand embroidered crystal and pearl insect embellishment.
Look 14 Shrunken wool cardigan with pieced print insert, broken crystal embellishment and whipstitch worn with spliced pencil skirt with pleated hem in crushed satin printed with tinted and pieced Chatsworth House etchings and bralette in black satin.
Look 15 Deconstructed peplum dress toile with exposed bra detail in pieced black Chatsworth vine thread work on calico linen jacquard with spliced lining detail.
Look 16 Spliced pencil dress with pleated hem in crushed satin printed with tinted and pieced Chatsworth House etchings.
Look 17 Single breasted jacket with bombe hip in pieced black Chatsworth vine threadwork on calico linen jacquard worn with full skirt with spliced calico lining detail.
Look 18 Slip dress in metallised cotton gauze with Elvis inspired Kelly green parure jewel and silver stud hand embellishment with silver sequin slip skirt and bra.
Look 19 Knitted wool cardigan in ivory with pieced thread work remnants and parure jewel crystal embroidery and whipstitch detail, worn with corset dress with exposed bra detail in pieced black Chatsworth vine thread work on calico linen jacquard.
Look 20 Pencil dress with square draped bodice in pieced Chatsworth vine thread work on olive linen jacquard and spliced lining detail with white cotton poplin collar.
Look 21 Spliced trench coat in pieced Chatsworth vine thread work on olive linen jacquard pieced with jacquard and lining remnants worn with full skirt in canary yellow tapestry printed faille and white poplin shirt.
Look 22 Peplum top with exploded bodice drape worn with full skirt in camomile Chatsworth tapestry printed faille.
Look 23 Tailored crombie coat in gun check wool with hand embroidered label worn with overprinted crepe de chine shirtdress with pleats in Chatsworth House etchings.
Look 24 Oversized unstructured jacket worn with hand embroidered label elongated pleated kilt skirt in meadow green wool blend tailoring worn with white poplin shirt.
Look 25 Double breasted jacket in guncheck wool, worn with white poplin shirt and draped kilt skirt in canary yellow Chatsworth House and Chatsworth chicken etchings.
Look 26 Oversized unstructured jacket with hand embroidered label worn with elongated pleated kilt skirt in maple wool blend tailoring worn with white poplin shirt.
Look 27 Pencil dress with exposed bra detail in camomile wildflower matelassé overprinted with rubberised Chatsworth House etching in black with embellished jet floral appliques, worn with camomile matelassé bow belt.
Look 28 Pencil dress in duchess pink wildflower matelassé overprinted with rubberised Chatsworth chicken in black with embellished jet floral appliques, worn with duchess pink matelassé bow belt.
Look 29 Frayed peplum jacket in multicolour heritage tweed worn worth with fluted skirt in multicolour heritage tweed with degrade hand frayed hem.
Look 30 Sequinned slip dress in ballet pink with Elvis inspired poppy red parure jewel and silver stud hand embellishment.
Look 31 Oversized biker jacket in petrol blue leather with Elvis inspired silver stud and cerise pink cabochon embellishment worn with white poplin shirt and slip skirt in cerise ditsy embroidered organza.
Look 32 Oversized biker jacket in pine green leather with Elvis inspired silver stud embellishment worn with white poplin shirt and slip skirt in aqua ditsy embroidered organza.
Look 33 Overprinted silk-screened kingfisher blue 50s dress with shoulder drape in exploded floral printed faille.
Look 34 Overprinted silk-screened Kelly green 50s strapless prom dress in exploded floral printed faille.
Look 35 Overprinted silk screened poppy red 50s dress with hand draped bodice in exploded floral printed faille.
Look 36 Black satin bralette with crystal insect brooches worn with full skirt in cerise Chatsworth tapestry printed faille overprinted with rubberised Chatsworth House etchings in black.
Look 37 Ivory satin bralette with crystal insect brooches worn with full skirt in lupin blue Chatsworth tapestry printed faille.
Look 38 Shrunken wool cardigan with pieced insert, broken crystal embellishment and whipstitch, worn with full skirt pieced from calico backing cloth remnants and bralette in eau de nil satin.
Look 39 Inside out couture dress lining in calico tulle with engineered Chatsworth vine hand embroidered bodice in metallic thread work with crystals and enamel stones.
Look 40 Pencil dress with couture draped Watteau back in laurel yellow jacquard satin with engineered Chatsworth vine hand embellishment in metallic thread work with crystals and enamel stones.
Look 41 Pieced gown with knotted bodice and trailing skirt drapes in raw linen, laurel yellow satin jacquard and antique textile remnants from Chatsworth House embellished with crystal insect brooches.
Look 42 Deconstructed dress toile in ivory tulle with hand draped bodice and skirt in Chatsworth chintz curtain remnants owned by Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire, and hand embroidered by Cecily Lasnet, her great granddaughter.
Look 43 Deconstructed dress toile in calico tulle with engineered Chatsworth vine hand embroidered bodice in metallic threadwork with crystals and enamel stones and draped skirt in Chatsworth curtain remnants, owned by Deborah, the late dowager Duchess of Devonshire.
CREDITS ERDEM SS24 / Spring Summer 2024
Photographer runway Jason Lloyd Evans
Styling: Tabitha Simmons
Makeup: Amy Conway for Bobbi Brown
Hair: Richard Phillipart for My.Organics
Skincare: 111SKIN
Nails: Emily Lansley for OPI
Casting: Noah Shelley at 1979 Services
Music: James Righton
Bespoke stationery: Smythson
Flowers: Blooming Haus
Underpinnings: Commando
Production: OBO
With special thanks to the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire, William and Laura Burlington, Helen Marchant, the Devonshire Collections & Archive teams: Susie Stokoe, Olivia Housley, Louise Clarke, Alice Martin, Amy Secker, Fran Baker, Charles Noble & Cecily Lasnet.