Des_Phemmes SS24 at Milan Fashion

Des_Phemmes SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 at Milan Fashion

SOLLEONE, the hottest moment of summer, is an almost tangible inspiration for Des_Phemmes SS24 collection. The name echoes the brand’s first collection, the SS21, a way to close the circle of these first 3 years of work, to remember and tell in a new way the past and present sensations and emotions, as they are interpreted by the designer in a different way today compared to before, in the evolution of his stylistic path.

Solleone is that sensation of “torpor” of a summer afternoon, the afternoon hours on an island, volcanic and boiling, that enveloping heat that almost puts you to sleep, between dreaming and waking, between doing and not doing: Stromboli , rediscovered by Salvo Rizza in his last Sicilian summers, is the black and hot island that forms the backdrop and intrigues the creative spirit of the Des_Phemmes collection conceived by the designer.

Thus is born a story of a journey, of a shared suitcase, when after the hot hours one awakens from that summer torpor, slow but vital, and a woman wraps herself in her man’s shirt, perhaps the same one he wore in the morning and which still smells of salt, soaked in sun and sea, but worn over an embroidered skirt, feminine and affected, for a contrast that becomes a dialogue, an exchange between the male and female worlds.

This wardrobe was born from the taste and stylistic choices of two people, of two personalities, and becomes the matrix of a research that sublimates the concept of “effortless” in the look, made up of essential shapes and spontaneous sensuality.

The Des_Phemmes SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 collection makes this expression of free nudity its own by offering garments in which masculine and feminine merge in an essential story, removing its gender value from underwear, the common thread of the entire collection, becoming a pure stylistic sign. The men’s boxer is available in “classic” fabrics such as stick poplin, in different colours, but also in experimental materials such as macramé lace or covered with small organza flowers, reminiscent of bougainvillea and jasmine, a riot of shapes and colors of the houses strombolane. The boxer is obsessively repeated under every look, a reminder of the 90s, a key stylistic era for the designer, but also for greater stratification of looks.

The idea of layering is a key concept, and looks are thus constructed by combining different textures, designs and surfaces together. Even the bra, covered in colorful embroidery, becomes a sensual detail to wear under jackets and shirts but also a real top, abandoning its function as an underwear item that “covers”, rather wanting to show itself.

The essential shapes of the garments are contrasted by a play of embroidery, an emblematic element and true DNA of the brand, which trap the light, defining geometries and volumes. The approach to embroidery is that of a refusal of decorativism, embroidery is no longer just a plastic material, but is used as a means of manipulating the “light that emerges and outlines”, with 3D edges created in sequins and crystals, which underlines the silhouette and proportions that move from the naked body to the shapes and volumes of the dress, almost undertaking an artistic investigation based on the relationship between light and nudity.

The inspiration of Des_Phemmes SS24 collection reaches its expressive climax starting from the intimacy of the female body up to the landscape suggestions of an uncontaminated Sicily. The body becomes a tableau of a picturesque August sunset and the colors of the flesh mix with the pale shades of a barren coastal landscape that is reflected in the sea.

The island’s typical hibiscus flower becomes a decorative motif and collection mania, it climbs over men’s tailored shirts and oversized tweed jackets, explodes in maxi sequined flowers on a background of yellow sequins on dresses and skirts, becomes a mobile surface through the needling of the denim drill.

The bowling shirt, a pass partout and holiday item, is developed in a new key, in organza or broderie anglaise, in macramé lace or embroidered with white hibiscus.

More couture-inspired fabrics such as duchesse, in chocolate and orange nuances, are worked in a pret-à-porter version and applied to sporty sports cuts such as on the mega parka with more daywear details such as the very large zips on the skirts. The embroidery is not hand embroidered but made of hotfix crystals.

A collection wrapped in the warmth of a summer which is perhaps already a memory of a naively mischievous youth, which naturally discovers the body and sexuality, with an intriguing and innocent allure at the same time, which sublimates its subtle magnificence in its naturalness.

On The Presentation Des_Phemmes SS24 / Spring Summer 2024 :

The presentation of the collection becomes a means to dialogue and collaborate with emerging artists and realities on the Milanese scene. The result is an exchange of views and new interpretations between the designer and the artists who approach the SS24 Des_Phemmes, making it their own, interpreting it.

Thus a summer breakfast takes place inside a cloister, a totally white and neutral space where the only elements of color are represented by the garments of the collection and the enormous reproductions of hibiscus in plastic and paper, the iconic flower of the collection.

Lit studio took care of the setup, bringing to life the dream of a Strombola terrace covered with curtains and white carpets, with dreamlike hibiscus flowers with macro dimensions of almost 1m.

Orion Records created the musical atmosphere, imagining a walk through the streets of Stromboli, as if following a rhythmic path between the houses, conceived as musical sites that tell the taste of those who live there.

ByRiber, an established company, followed and coordinated the production of the entire project.