S.S. Daley Autumn/Winter 2025 at London Fashion Week

S.S. Daley Autumn/Winter 2025 / AW25 at London Fashion Week

For AW25 S.S. Daley presents a collection inspired by the enveloping world of the Scottish Colourists – an artistic group known for the boldness of their colour palette and atmospheric artistic landscapes. The starting point for Daley was Iona Croft painted in the mid-1920s by Francis Cadell, one of the more prominent members of the group. For Daley, the textual vocabulary of the group’s work brought new considerations towards craft, textiles and forms.

The modulations of light and shade which became synonymous with the Scottish Colourists are threaded throughout S.S. Daley AW25 / Autumn/Winter 2025 collection with the juxtaposition of textiles. Buttery soft leathers are paired with stiffened tapestry-like wovens, creating re-developed forms of silhouette. A delicately fluid sheer organza shirt adorned with prints of trailing vines in muted blues and greens jostle against the ruggedness of twilled denim jeans.

House codes of S.S. Daley are refreshed with a focus on the technical forms of outerwear, such as cropped quilted jackets in vivid orange and sleek black nylon. The silhouette of a trench coat is renewed in the form of a tight, cropped peplum jacket.

An exploration of crafts is explored throughout S.S. Daley AW25 / Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. Dresses are embroidered with a cascade of hand-painted wooden beads, creating splashes of florals. This theme continues through the addition of accessories such as beaded leather based bags, brooches and chunky knitted hats. The felting technique is introduced within the menswear and womenswear stories. A smock dress is hand felted with the image of a woman in repose, reminiscent of a portrait by John Duncan Fergusson. The textures plucked out in soft wisps of dusky oranges, rich purples and vibrant blues.

The connection to Iona Croft is referenced in the form of a fully felted gentleman’s trench coat with a matching felted tote bag. The landscaped cottage scene reproduced in a continuous image across the garment. The emotive and fluent brushwork of the Scottish Colourists is nodded to through the use of prints. A voluminous cacophony of netting is enveloped in a warm cream satin adorned with ambling vines and berries, while a further silhouette is reproduced again in a rich brown organza printed with fanned out reeds and flora.

The emotive and fluent brushwork of the Scottish Colourists is nodded to through the use of prints. A voluminous cacophony of netting is enveloped in a warm cream satin adorned with ambling vines and berries, while a further silhouette is reproduced again in a rich brown organza printed with fanned out reeds and flora.

Daley continues with the evolution of his womenswear, exploring this new vocabulary from his womenswear debut in SS25. Daley notes the music and image of the late Marianne Faithfull as a core influence for the AW25 woman. “ Marianne’s willingness to experiment and explore different genres of music, poetry and spoken word helped pave the way for other artists to push boundaries” states Daley.

The artistic rebellion that defined Faithfull as an iconic figure of the 1960s is seen through rich woollen single breasted suits paired with tight ribbed sheer jerseys, and the exaggerated skirts of the coats. ‘Stay Faithfull to Marianne’ is scrawled across a knitted sweater, a homage to her influence on contemporary art and culture.