Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027 at London Fashion Week

Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2027 / SS27 at London Fashion Week

Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection begins with an unusual kind of love story—not a conventional romance, but the story of something beautiful being discovered where nobody expected to find it. Presented inside London’s Old Bailey, Rocha looked to Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ, particularly the painting’s extraordinary rediscovery in Dublin in 1990 after decades of being mistaken for a copy. That idea of finding beauty in an unexpected place became the emotional starting point for Simone Rocha SS27 / Spring/Summer 2027 collection.

For SS27, Rocha noticeably strips back some of the layers that have become synonymous with her work. Instead of building an elaborate narrative around every look, she focused on creating characters and allowing the clothes to carry the emotion themselves. Romantic dresses were disrupted by exposed skin, sheer fabrics and underwear, while leather jackets and more everyday outerwear brought a harder, more familiar quality into the collection. The contrast made the femininity feel less protected and more vulnerable.

The rose remained one of the strongest visual signatures. Hand-formed rose embellishments appeared around necklines and heads, while embroidery travelled across sheer fabrics. Taffeta cocoon structures wrapped around the body like sculptural mantels, contrasting with trapeze dresses and delicate slip dresses that seemed deliberately undone. There was also a practical side to the collection, with Harrington jackets and adjustable anoraks bringing ordinary wardrobe pieces into Rocha’s highly romantic world.

What makes SS27 particularly interesting is the way Rocha balances intimacy with spectacle. The exposed underwear and bare skin could have made the collection feel overtly provocative, but the historical references, soft palette and sculptural silhouettes keep it within her distinctive romantic language. Even the more functional pieces are transformed through roses, embellishment and unusual proportions.

Rather than abandoning the codes that have defined her work, Simone Rocha seems to be editing them. SS27 feels like a more concentrated version of her world—romantic but exposed, historical but contemporary, and delicate without becoming fragile. It is a collection about finding beauty in contradiction, much like the Caravaggio painting that inspired it.